Teochew kueh hawkers behind rigid ordering system say they aren’t arrogant, just misunderstood

Buying Teochew kueh on a whim for breakfast or teatime is something many of us take for granted. But at one heritage stall in Kukoh 21 Food Centre, you’ll have to plan at least four hours ahead if you’re craving soon kueh and peng kueh. Jalan Kukoh Teochew Kueh takes orders (usually by phone) from 8.30am to 1pm, for collection only from 5pm the same day, or 7am the next morning. This means that if you want to get your hands on their heritage kueh, you’ll have to place your order hours in advance – and unless there happens to be leftovers, you won’t be able to get your hands on any by walking in.
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According to third-gen owner Loh Choon Huay, 70, this system was adopted from her mother, who used to sell Teochew kueh at the carpark outside the same hawker centre. Kukoh Teochew Kueh’s heritage dates back over 80 years, with Choon Huay’s grandma the first to sell kueh in Johor Bahru, where she was born. 
Currently, the chirpy 70-year-old hawker runs the biz together with her two younger brothers, Loh Kai Mong, 63, and Loh Kai Hong, 60. 
Why do they follow such a rigid schedule? The hawker simply responds: “It takes a long time for us to make the kueh.” According to her, they prepare ingredients from 7am to noon, and only begin making their kueh after their lunch break, from 1pm onwards. “Our kueh can’t be made by just one person. My fourth brother (Kai Mong) makes the skin, while my youngest brother and I are in charge of the ingredients,” she notes. 
While this system may seem to hamper the number of customers they get daily, Choon Huay says it hasn’t affected their sales. “To be honest, my regulars are all ok with this system. The collection timing is convenient for them, as it’s after office hours. If it’s too late and they can’t come and collect it at night, I’ll allow them to collect it the next morning,” she says.
Furthermore, customers who place advanced orders typically buy an average of 10 to 20 kueh at once (a minimum purchase of 10 is required), while walk-in customers need to purchase a minimum of two. In fact, their kueh is so popular that some patrons have even ordered up to 200 pieces at once.
Nonetheless, the hawker admits that their strict schedule has caused some misunderstandings. Even on our recent TikTok video of the stall, some netizens called the siblings “arrogant”. 
But Choon Huay brushes these comments off coolly: “I know, I saw the comments too! On this topic of arrogance, a lot of people don’t know our sales timings. They come during lunch and ask for kueh, even though we’ve already put out a big sign saying it’s sold out. We’ll tell them to look at the signboard, and that there’s no kueh. So a lot of people say ‘everytime I come, I’m unable to buy!’, because they don’t understand our business hours. So they’re unhappy about it.” Pro tip: If you’re planning to walk in, your safest bet is to call in first to check for any last minute stocks. 
What makes Jalan Kukoh’s kueh special? According to the hawkers, it all lies in their three-generations old technique, which they learned from observing their mother and grandmother.
“A few of our methods are passed down from my grandmother, and the taste is different from those sold elsewhere. For instance, peng kueh (rice kueh) sold elsewhere typically uses white glutinous rice, but ours is of a darker colour. Our chives are also different from elsewhere, as we use our own special oil to steam it,” Choon Huay shares.
She cheerfully adds: “A lot of customers say our technique and flavour of the kueh is still the same as our mother’s.” Currently, the stall sells five types of kueh: Ang Tho Kueh (also known as peng kueh, with peanut and dried shrimp, $1.60), Tau Sar Kueh ($1.60), Soon Kueh ($1.50), Koo Chai Kueh (chives, $1.50), and Yam Kueh ($1.50). 
Although the three siblings are in their 60s and 70s, they tell 8days.sg that they haven’t found a successor yet. “Our kids have their own better jobs, so they don’t want to become hawkers. They love to eat our kueh. But making it is a lot of hard work, and young people these days don’t really want to work as hawkers due to the long hours and heat,” she says. 
Though Choon Huay agrees it’d be a pity if no one takes over their biz in the future, she admits that she hasn’t actually given it much thought yet. “I asked my younger brother to join the business, so now we have at least another 10 years to go, since he’s 10 years younger than me. In 10 years, we’ll discuss this again. If there’s someone who is sincere, we’ll consider selling our recipe,” she laughs. 
Jalan Kukoh Teochew Kueh is at #01-19/01-20 Kukoh 21 Food Centre, 1 Jln Kukoh, S161001. Open Tue – Sat 7.30am – 9am; 5.30pm – 7pm. Call 9838 0235 for advance orders. 
Photos: Glyn Seah, Burpple/Munch Kinggs, Instagram/Followlin, Instagram/SongSengWun, Instagram/Yvonnexbelly, Google/Peter Lin
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